Travel Update: Xian January 26, 2010
Posted by Christina in China, Travel.Tags: China, Terracotta Warriors, Travel, Xian
add a comment
We liked Xian quite a bit because the city had character. Even some of its anonymous commercial and office buildings tried to stand out by not being built of that monstrous white tile that comprise buildings in Anyang and adding a Chinese flourish here there. The roofs, for example. All sloping, bamboo-like. You’ve seen it in the movies.
A street that ran parallel to the city wall (fully restored, a gigantic bonus) had either been restored or rebuilt in what I’ll call a more traditional Chinese style (because I don’t know if there’s a technical name or what): one or two stories of gray brick with latticed windows and red Chinese lanterns swaying outside.
Shop after shop, stall after stall crammed next to each other selling a lot of the same goods. Mainly calligraphy brushes or something else having to do with calligraphy or just plain ol’ souvenir junk, but it was still fun to wander away from the packed crowds on the main shopping street. (Where there was both a Starbucks and a Pizza Hut besides the omnipresent KFCs and McDonalds).
The Terracotta Warriors were pretty cool. If I sound a little tepid, it’s because I was a little disappointed. I mean, I was intrigued to see what a paranoid, egomaniac ruler was able to accomplish- getting his people to sculpt a massive army out of clay- and then bury it. It’s just that the Terracotta Warriors have been built up so much (the signs in one of the exhibition halls called them “the eighth wonder of the world”). And there really isn’t a lot to look at.
You can’t get really close to the Warriors but a few tucked behind glass (where hoards of Doodles fight for a space so they can get their picture taken in front of one) or thick rope so it’s difficult to appreciate the intricate artistry. Also, it seemed the bulk of the four pits hadn’t been excavated yet. True, you’re impressed with the size of the first pit with several hundred Warriors staring at you, but most of the rest are still underground. It’s hard to be wowed when you’re staring at a bunch of old dirt mounds. Still, it was worth the visit. The eighth wonder of the world!
I’ve posted some pictures of out stay in Xian on my flickr page which includes some Terracotta Warrior highlights and shots from around Xian.
Stay Tuned: will be updating with a round of Shanghai pictures soon!
Winter Holiday Break January 21, 2010
Posted by Christina in China, Travel.Tags: China, Travel
add a comment
Dearest Readers,
Rational Riposte is taking a temporary hiatus because we’re blowing this grimy craphole for three adventurous weeks tramping around China!
I’ve been doing a happy dance around the apartment for days in anticipation and tonight, at 10:35, we’re off!
Our itinerary:
First, to Xian to see the Terracotta Warriors.
Next, another night train to Shanghai to see, well. All the cool things in Shanghai. Art museums, skyscrapers, the famed Bund and other… old things. All the while indulging in coffee, pizza, bread, cheese and all the other tasty Western treats we can’t get in Anyang.
After a week in Shanghai, we’ll bop east a couple hours to the former capital of China, Nanjing. This city is also known for the Nanjing Massacre that occurred when the Japanese invaded in 1937 and slaughtered hundreds of thousands of people. I’m also told Nanjing boasts the biggest wall ever built around any city ever in the world.
Finally, we’ll train it waaaaaaaaaaaay northeast, about as far north as you can go in China, to the city of Harbin. We’ll peruse their Ice Lantern Festival and the quaint, Russian-influenced town. Perhaps we will go ice skating on the frozen river, too. Or go for a swim. Who knows?
Depending on my motivation, and how easy it’ll be to access the intertubes, I’ll try to provide travel updates along the way.
’til then. Happy Travels!
map via: China Map – China Satellite Image – Physical – Political.
In China, Be Careful What You Text January 19, 2010
Posted by Christina in China.Tags: censorship, China, living, texting
add a comment
(cross posted with Rational Riposte)
A couple days ago Chris, Robert and I took four of our former students out to our favorite hot pot for a lovely dinner. These four girls are great. Smart, enthusiastic, and inquisitive. Two in particular are politically aware (which speaks volumes about a 20 year-old Chinese student) and don’t wait for outside information to get dumped into their laps. These girls regularly seek it out which, in China, is not always an easy task.
Now, the Chinese government is setting a precedent that could make it more difficult to communicate ideas. Yep, the Doodles are taking their censorship fetish a step further to control what the people can and can not text each other. According to the China Daily, the police have the authority to cancel anyone’s texting service if their messages contain any “illegal or unhealthy” content.
Oh, Big Brother, isn’t your all-seeing eye getting strained yet? What is “unhealthy” to an old, traditional, corrupt official? Would texting about Mr. Gay China be on that list? A dirty pun? Certainly any suggestive comments texted to your significant other would be up for grabs. Naughty, kids.
One China Daily article defines these “bad messages” as involving “prostitution, violence, sex, threats or extortion.” Which, you know, that’s not all bad. I mean I don’t want threatening texts either, but unless all one billion Chinese are violent psychotics, I fail to see how this intrusion of privacy could actually help most people. If you receive threatening texts, take those to the police and ask for help. No spying needed.
But, true to form, it seems the police have quite a leash in determining if a message is “bad” or not. Which gives further licence to spy. What’s more, you probably won’t be able to see the evidence of any “bad messages” you supposedly sent which further compromises any purported societal good that may come out of this.
Though the articles I read about this didn’t mention fining any user, the cynic in me thinks this is basically another corrupt practice that’ll wind up greasing certain officials pockets. And, of course, the intense intrusion of privacy. This practices gives officials greater control on what the people can read and talk about.
Remember those riots in China last July? They happened in the province of Xinjiang which only weeks ago got back the (censored) “full” Internet and yesterday the ability to text but only a maximum of 20 messages a day and not internationally. Hmph. Maybe the government is trying so hard to protect everyone against criminals and those uppity, syringe-wielding minorities that all should be grateful that they’re being treated like criminals, too.
So, should you send one of these nefarious messages and would like your service turned back on, there’s the rigmarole of going to the public security department and, in true Chinese fashion, you’re required to write a letter promising you won’t send any more bad messages again. A letter! What happens if you break your promise? Will you have to write “I will not send bad messages” on a black board a hundred times?
I haven’t even mentioned Google yet. But I think you’ll get the idea without me having to explain it. So. Google.
I’m waffling between the absurdity of clamping down on text messages (what’s the problem if someone wants to text their honey “u r sexy in u r purple undies”) and tired outrage at yet another intrusion of the government into the personal lives of its citizens.
My New Friend Arcobrau January 15, 2010
Posted by Christina in China.Tags: anyang, beer, China, German, living
add a comment
Just another Thursday night in Anyang where Robert, Chris, and I played cards, listened to music (Yo-Yo Ma is great background music) and polished of this 5 liter little-keg of tasty German brew called Arcobrau. (I think it’s a kind of lager, Dad. Right?)
Tastiest beer I’d ever tasted. Subtle, not so “beery.” Notes of… coffee and caramel dancing on the tongue. Scrumptious!
10 questions never to ask a writer January 13, 2010
Posted by Christina in Musings, Uncategorized.Tags: writing
1 comment so far
While drinking my Wicked Doodle coffee and taking a break from my own novel-writing, I stumbled across this blog post, 10 Questions never to ask a writer on Lauren B. Davis’s blog. Being something of writer myself (wannabe, that is) I’ve reproduced it for you, even though many of these don’t technically apply to me yet. My answer to #8 is “No, I’m unpublished but I cling to the hope that IT WILL HAPPEN by my fingernails.”
I like talking about books and writing, generally, but when it comes to my own writing, I tend to clam up and feel self-conscious by the scrutiny, like my ideas are being judged even if I don’t think there really are. It’s not a feeling I like to have, especially if writing isn’t going so well, and I prefer to save my ideas for paper. So, friends and fam, here are some things to keep in mind:
1. How’s the novel coming? Well, probably not very well. Novels are wild, unwieldy beasts that resist being tamed. Really, do you want to hear how Faulkner spent twelve hours writing a scene about looking at young girl’s dirty underpants as she climbed a tree? Probably not, and that was the definitive scene in The Sound and the Fury, so imagine how much less you’ll want to read about that eel-skinning scene I labored over for hours yesterday, only to erase today. To quote Oscar Wilde, “I was working on the proof of one of my poems all the morning, and took out a comma. In the afternoon I put it back again.”
There is also a story about James Joyce wherein someone came round to see The Great Man as he worked in his Paris garret:
“How are you, James?” he said. “You don’t look so good.”
“I’m terrible.”
“Is it the writing?”
“Of course it’s the feckin’ writing! It’s always the writing!”
“Can you not write then? Are you blocked?”
“I’ve written seven words today.”
“Well, James,” said the friend, “for you, actually, that’s not bad.”
“I suppose,” said the Great Man, “but now I’ve got to figure out what order to put them in.”
Thus, it’s a question for which there is no good answer, and we know it.
2. Are you writing? If I am, see 1. above. If ‘m not, you really don’t want to know. The only thing worse than having writer’s block is talking about it. Having to listen to such panicked whining is recognized as torture and we wouldn’t dream of inflicting it on you.
3. Has your novel sold? Sad to say, but it’s unlikely. Publishing is a slaughterhouse these days, and even in the Good Old Days (if ever there were any), almost no one published, and of the minuscule number who did, almost none of those published a second novel. Having to answer that question over and over again is like rubbing glass in an open wound. Believe me, if there’s good news, we’ll be telling you. Heck, we’ll be telling EVERYONE! Most of us write because we can’t stop writing – it’s a sort of mental illness – and thus we do so in spite of the searing disappointments. Try not to make us talk about it.
4. When’s that new book coming out? Let’s put it this way: if, since the last time we spoke, I’ve finished the manuscript, submitted it to my agent, my agent has read it (which usually takes three months because they are busy, important folks), and loved it just as it is with no changes at all; if the agent has then in turn submitted it to editors and one of them has read it (think another few months or so, or more, since editors are also important, busy folks), and that editor LOVED it, and showed it to the sales force (the important people who really run publishing these days) and the sales force LOVED it just as it is, and made an offer……. even if ALL those things have already happened, it will still be around TWO YEARS before the book will actually come out, due to the editing and production process. So, if you’ve asked this question once in the past three years, you needn’t ask it again. Also, see 3).
5. I just love the new Dan Brown novel (or Sarah Palin’s memoir), have you read it yet? My condolences, and no.
6. How come I can’t get your books here? And by ‘here’ you probably mean America. This one may not apply to all writers, but it will to a surprising number of us. Especially if we are, say, from Canada or Britain or Ireland or Scotland or New Zealand or Australia… doubly so if we are from a country where English isn’t the first language (and no jokes about Scotland, please). Although, with some justification, America views itself as the center of the universe, people do publish in other countries, and getting published in England does not mean a writer will find a publisher in New York, which considers itself (again, with some justification) as the center of the center of the universe. Without a publishing contract in the US, the book will not be available to the US market. You could, however, go on the internet and order books from bookstores in the US or Canada or gasp, even Australia. I do it all the time.
7. Is that story autobiographical? Until my parents are all dead, the answer to that is no. I’m joking, really Mum, I am. However, it can be a bit insulting to a writer to have everyone think that a) you really were a junkie porn star homicidal trust fund baby and just kept it a secret, or that b) you haven’t the imagination to MAKE THINGS UP, which is, after all, what fiction writers are supposed to do, mostly. I will paraphrase what W. Somerset Maugham said, though, in that writers are not God, we cannot create out of nothing. Everything is inspiration and fodder, even cocktail party conversations.
8. Oh, you’re a writer! Have I heard of you? Do I know your books? I have no idea, but if not please don’t make it sound as if I’ve failed. Might I suggest, if you’re interested, you note one of the titles and buy a book?
9. How big an advance did you get? How many books did you sell? Now really, didn’t your mother ever tell you it was impolite to ask someone what they make for a living? It will either be shockingly low by your standards, or shockingly high, neither of which is useful information. People in France, where I lived for many years, never ask these sorts of particularly American questions. They ask instead, “Where can I buy one of your books?” Which is a lovely question, since it implies they are a) interested in your work, and b) interested in supporting your work by actually BUYING a book.
10. What’s the book you’re working on about? Two problems with this question: the first is that if I talk too much about it, I won’t write about it, so I don’t mean to be rude, but I don’t want to answer that question. (Most people are pretty good about that and don’t take offense, but you’d be surprised, perhaps, by how many do.) The second problem is that I may not know. I write a story that pops into my head, but I may not know what it’s really about until a long way down the line. When I was writing The Radiant City, it wasn’t until I was through the first draft, and heard Rev. Ernest Hunt, the Rector at the American Cathedral in Paris, say, “Cynicism is the last refuge of the broken-hearted” that I understood I was writing about precisely that – whether disillusionment, the kind that breaks your heart, like terrorist attacks, or war, or genocide, damns you to a life of cynicism, or if it’s possible to continue to walk through the world with a compassionate heart. (The quote became the epigram of the book. Thanks Ernie!)
And although it’s not a question, there is one statement that’s almost guaranteed to send a writer scrambling to a safe nest behind the potted palm: “I’m going to take six months off from my job and write a book.”
Legend has it this statement was made to either William Styron or Margaret Lawrence, depending on who’s telling it, by a heart surgeon at a cocktail party. As in, “I just loved your book so much, and you’ve inspired me. I’m going to take six months off from my job and write my own memoir.” “Really,” replied William/Margaret. “Well, you’ve inspired me as well. I’m going to take six months off from writing and become a heart surgeon.”
I wouldn’t have the guts to say that, but I admit it, I do think it from time to time. It takes as long to learn to be a good writer as it does to do anything else – play the violin, perhaps, or architecture, or yes, heart surgery. And just like those things, having just a soupcon of talent doesn’t hurt.
So at this point you might be asking yourself what you CAN ask a writer. Well, we love talking about books we’ve enjoyed, as well as anything else that inspires us. And as writers we tend to watch the world pretty closely, since you never know when a story worth writing about may pop up, so current affairs are just as interesting to us as to anyone else. Then too, if we’re well-brought up, psychologically stable folk (and some of us are), we probably think YOU’RE pretty interesting. You might not want to answer questions about, say, how much you make for a living, and I wouldn’t dream of asking you, but I’d be fascinated to learn, for example, what you believe and how you came to believe it. I’d like to know how you met your spouse, and what you think about the death penalty, and why; and what you think about censorship, and that story about fly-fishing, and the one about the rescue dog, and what you think it means to be a good person… oh, there’s a world of things out there to talk about, isn’t there? “
Coffee Break January 12, 2010
Posted by Christina in China.Tags: China, coffee
1 comment so far
Thanks, Brenda!
The Wicked Doodle is delicious! And tastes great with the Milano’s I bought in Zhengzhou last Friday.
xie xie!
A Day’s Journey to Zhengzhou January 9, 2010
Posted by Christina in Adventures, China.Tags: China, living, Zhengzhou
add a comment
I’ve written about my feelings of Zhengzhou, the roiling, polluted craphole capital of Henan, before and they haven’t changed, but, but but. It does have things that no one can get in Anyang. Really good bread. And cheese.
Frankly, I was just excited for a change of scenery (and a smooth ride on the D train. I love the D train). We did our shopping quickly first. I wandered the aisles and discovered the foreign food section of Dennis also sells frozen pizzas, goldfish crackers, Peppridge Farm cookies (Milanos!), cans of Campbell’s soups, Hershey kisses, Jergan’s and Suave body products. I could have wandered in there for an hour, but we were operating on only a few-hour time limit so we purchased our baguette and breads and cookies and cheeses and proceeded to the second part of our journey: Pizza Hut.
Robert, claiming to know the center of the city quite well, led us lugging our booty around the teeming city center for a while, its streets a gob of crisscrossing tentacles, before I spied the Haagan-Daaz and then the tell-tale hat (the foreign chain restaurants always lump together). I bounced up and down, pointed and yelled ecstatically, “There it is! There it is!” and got even more people to stare at me. Whatever, we got pizza for lunch and coffees in one of the nicest, most atmospheric restaurants we’d been to in this country.
This isn’t the Pizza Hut you know- ripped red vinyl booths and sticky tables. The decor is mostly warm browns and tans and there are decorative touches here and there of glass jars and pasta. This is expensive dining here, for yuppies and wealthy party officials and their offspring, not the average local.
So we relaxed for a while, digested, and meandered through street after street of shops wedged next to each other until we got to the train station. We were on the K train coming back, a slower train, and cheaper. And more crowded and smelly. Anticipating this, I used the toilet facilities at the train station which turned out to be… a latrine. Women pressed together for space to squat on top of the tile, with only a short tile wall separating butts from each other.
Now, this is a sure sign that I’ve really acclimated because I didn’t panic and run away like I did a year ago. I only sighed and pushed my way to the back, away from the crowds and took a place in line, tactfully looking at the wall instead of the girl squatting right in front of me. When it was my turn, the girl behind me turned so her back faced me and, in the greatest display of kindness from a stranger I’d experienced here, used her back to act as a door, giving me privacy.
On the ride back, we buried our heads in books to avoid a conversation with the three teens sitting across from us, and we arrived, two hours and a bit later, in to Anyang. Our booty safe.
Snuggie Living January 7, 2010
Posted by Christina in China.Tags: China, living
1 comment so far
Not a whole lot happening here the last few days since I finished my exams! Woopee! (Well, except the three tards that decided not to come to class for the exam… they might end up failing…)
So now it’s lounging in our Snuggies all day under the blankets with a space heater in hiding from the face-freezing cold. And occasionally eating a bao zi or something. Gnom gnom.

via The Brain Dump (Thanks, Chris for letting my snip the photo!)
Another Use for Dish Soap January 4, 2010
Posted by Christina in China.Tags: China, jade, shopping
add a comment
A young, skinny man barely an inch taller than myself, wearing an oversized sweater and jeans as well as a sixteen year-old American boy, this guy was, presumably, the “master” of jamming tiny jade bracelets on hands of bone, not jelly, by cleverly using a household item: dish soap.
Why am I letting this man lather up my hand and wrist to shove a infinitesimal ring of (gorgeous, light green) jade over my fat monkey paw you ask? Well, it’s Chris’s fault. He, well, he really outdid himself on the present-front this Christmas. With the aid of our ever-helpful, ever-chatty, ever-enthusiastic friend Lucy, he spent an afternoon bopping from shop to shop, searching for the most beautifulest jade bracelet in all the land just for me!
Only it didn’t fit.
Lucy’s monkey paw was waaaaay fatter than mine so the bracelet slid on and off a tad too easily. One careless gesture and it would go spinning through the air and damage someone’s, probably a poor student’s, face.
So here we are on a fine, Sunday afternoon, listening to “the master” order me to relax my hand, and watching him scrape my knuckles red with pretty jewelery.
I can kinda understand the Doodle logic behind getting the smallest possible bracelet that could conceivably fit- so it won’t slip off accidentally and break (obviously), but also because big bangley bracelets tend to get in the way of things. Typing, writing, washing, etc. It’s annoying to have them knocking against everything besides the fact that you can damage it that way.
I’d seen bracelets before, jade among others, that are soooooo tiny you think only a toddler could wear one. Not so. A lot of Doodle women squeeze their hands into these bracelets that are so small, the bracelet doesn’t actually move once its been pushed past the wrist. Heaven forbid you swell up for some reason.
After trying on a couple different sizes, I select an oval-shaped bracelet that was just big enough that I could get it on without dish soap and without the assistance of a “master” and small enough that it could slide off without me dislocating something. The possibility of needing someone’s help to remove a piece of jewelery didn’t sit well so I ignored the shopkeeper’s and the “master’s” advice and slid my new bracelet on all by myself.
Now, my wrist is so gorgeous!
Happy New Year, 2010! January 1, 2010
Posted by Christina in China.Tags: China, food
2 comments
Last night, Chris, Robert and I headed to our favorite hot pot as part of our New Year’s celebration (followed by wine, beer and cards. The usual weekend entertainment).
Chris was in prime position to snap a picture of the awesome rollerskating waiters. They soar around the restaurant carrying trays of veggies and meats and after all the times we’ve come to this restaurant, we’ve yet to see one of them wipe out or even collide with anyone. Even as they fly onto the escalators at high speeds that would surely pitch me over. But that could be just because I’m a girl.
We haven’t seen a single girl on skates so I guess we of the fairer sex can’t skate and handle a big, heavy, meat-laden try at the same time. We must make do with our little feet.










